Zia in the Kitchen

Abundance

2011-08-13T18:25:00.002-05:00

Dinner by Zio

2011-06-18T21:02:00.004-05:00

Zio cooked dinner tonight while I did a spot of therapy gardening. He grilled veggies and salmon. What really made this dish was a little twist by Zio... he used Brisket Rub instead of the more traditional dill. Normally, I wouldn't think that the spicy sweet flavors would compliment fish, but this was fantastic!

Taking a Breather

2011-05-15T14:21:00.005-05:00

I admit it started with the wine.

We had gotten a new wine to try from our local shop, and were a bit stymied by what to eat with it. We had been forewarned that this is a big wine, not something for the warm weather we've been experiencing. Not at all deterred, we delved into our library and considered our options. After considering and virtually tasting a good many dishes I decided to a variation on a recipe, intended for lamb, from one of my favorite cookbooks. The weather was kind and decided to pitch me one. We've had a perfect week of cooler temperatures, giving me the excuse for one last braised dish before summer starts in earnest.

This worked very well with a little couscous along side, although I think potatoes would be nice too. And the wine? Spicy, aromatic, and deep. Very repeatable all 'round.

Braised Veal Shanks

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 veal shanks (oso buco)
pinch salt, or to taste
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
pinch saffron, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper or to taste
large pinch chile powder
1 cup dry red wine
2 cups chicken or beef stock
1/2 cup dried prunes

In a Dutch oven or braising pan, heat olive oil and butter together over medium heat. Brown veal shanks until well-caramelized, about 5 minutes on a side. Remove to a plate and set aside.

In the same pan, cook onion with the salt until soft and slightly browned. Add garlic and all the spices; cook for one minute more. Return the veal shanks to the pan.

Add wine and stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer, basting occasionally, until meat is fork tender, about 3 hours. Add prunes and simmer for another 20 minutes to soften.

Remove shanks and prunes to a warm plate and cover to keep warm. Set aside. Increase heat and reduce pan liquids to about 3/4 cup. Pour sauce over shanks and serve at once.

Running

2011-05-01T10:44:00.003-05:00

If you're still out there, bless you! I've been running just to keep in place both at home and at work. Zio's been taking good care of me, and making lovely dinners like these grilled chops. I'll be back after Mothers' day. Promise.

The Latest Project

2011-03-16T08:52:00.002-05:00

This is the first batch for me. Ever. I admit they're not where I'd like them to be. Yet. I'll share when I feel I've gotten the recipe just right.

It's Saturday...

2011-03-05T18:56:00.001-06:00

whatcha cookin' tonight?

Substitutions

2011-02-24T17:46:00.004-06:00

Yes, I know. Not one of my better photographic moments. This is part of my search to still enjoy some form of the crepes that Zio's grandmother used to make. Hers were lovely manicotti crepes (or crespelle) covered in her marinara sauce. Sadly, I can't do the tomato any more.

This is a substantial dish because of all the cream. We served it simply, with a green salad and fresh bread. It might also do as a brunch dish. The crepes and filling may be made in advance and assembled just before baking.

Mushroom Crespelle

Makes about 24 crepes

2 eggs, beaten
1 cup flour
2+ cups water
olive oil for crepe pan

½ ounce dried oyster mushrooms
1 cup boiling water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, minced
2 lbs fresh shitake mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
salt
pepper
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 cup heavy cream, divided
½ cup grated parmesan or romano cheese

Whisk the eggs until smooth. Add flour and ensure there are no lumps. Lastly, add the water. You will want a batter of the consistency of light cream. Add more water if necessary.

Lightly oil the crepe pan and the spatula with an oiled cloth or paper towel (there should only be a thin film of oil with no standing liquid). Over medium heat, swirl a scant ¼ cup of batter over the bottom of the pan. Cook until the crepe starts to brown at the edges. Flip with the spatula and brown the other side. The crepe should take about a minute to be completely cooked. Wipe pan and spatula with an oiled cloth, and repeat the process until all the batter is used.

Place mushrooms in a non-reactive dish and pour over boiling water to cover. Set aside for 20 minutes to rehydrate.

Remove mushrooms from the hot water, gently squeezing to remove excess liquid. Strain soaking liquid through a coffee filter to remove any grit and set aside. Slice the mushrooms into slivers and set aside.

Melt butter over medium heat. Cook shallots until soft. Add fresh mushrooms and thyme, cooking until mushrooms render their liquid. Add the rehydrated mushrooms and cook for one minute more. Add the vinegar, and cook to nearly dry. Add the soaking liquid, increase heat to medium-high, and reduce until liquid just coats the mushrooms. Remove pan from the heat and add ¼ cup of the cream.

Preheat oven to 425F. To assemble crespelle, place 2 rounded tablespoons mushroom mixture in a line down the center of the crepe. Fold edges over, and place in a lightly oiled baking dish, seam side up. Drizzle over the remaining cream and sprinkle over the cheese. Bake for about 15 minutes or until bubbly and lightly browned. Serve at once.

Adventures in Ice

2011-02-02T10:07:00.005-06:00

Dallas is a good city to live in if, like me, you did not grow up knowing how to negotiate driving in snow/ice/sleet or other inclement weather. As of Tuesday, we have ice on our roads that shows no sign of melting any time soon. As a result, today is our second day of closed businesses and staying at home. This is fine with both of us. The ice in question is also on our driveway, which slopes toward the house. Since shelter is involved in the equation, I'm not keen on finding out just how well the traction control on my car really functions. It's a good day to build a fire, brew a pot of coffee, and curl up with a stack of [cook]books. Repeat as necessary.

It's also a good day to make risotto. I still have a little of the black garlic. And a little bag of dried morels. I'm calling lunch seized.

Morel Risotto with Black Garlic

Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 as an entrée

1/2 cup lightly packed dried morel mushrooms
1 cup boiling water
4 tablespoons butter
2 medium shallots, minced
salt
2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1 tablespoon finely minced thyme
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine or 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
4 cups golden chicken stock, preferably home made
2-3 cloves black garlic, thinly sliced into rounds
1/4 cup grated romano cheese
freshly ground pepper

Soak the dried mushrooms in boiling water until softened, 20 to 30 minutes. Lift out the mushrooms; gently squeeze out any additional water, and chop or slice. Strain the soaking liquid through a paper towel or coffee filter, and set aside.

Heat the chicken stock to a gentle simmer.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a braising pan, risotto pan, or stockpot over medium heat and sauté the shallots with a pinch of salt until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the rice, fresh garlic, thyme, and rice; cook for 2 minutes or until rice is translucent.

Stir in wine or vinegar and cook until the pan is nearly dry. Stir in the mushroom soaking liquid and cook until the rice absorbs the liquid. Gradually add the stock, 1/2 cup at a time. Stir frequently and add more stock as the rice absorbs the stock. Cook until all the stock is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Should you run out of stock before the 20 minutes, taste for doneness and add additional hot water if necessary. Do not cook dry; reduce last addition by half, remove from heat, stir in the black garlic, and cover for five minutes.

Stir in remaining butter and grated cheese. Adjust seasoning to taste, and divide between plates. Grind pepper over the top to preference. Serve at once.

Something New

2011-01-26T19:20:00.009-06:00

The Niece had the most wonderful stocking stuffers this year for Christmas. She had little jars of smoked salts, dried jalapenos, and herbs. And... black garlic. I'd never tried it. After spending a little time online, I learned that it is garlic that's been fermented in its skin and it should have an earthy, sweet flavor similar to balsamic vinegar. After some consideration we decided it would be a good companion to steak. Or mushrooms. Or...

For our maiden voyage, we decided to keep it simple and go with the steak. Zio consulted with our favorite butcher, and picked up a gorgeous ribeye. It was given a little olive oil, salt, pepper, and introduced to the grill. In the meantime, I sliced the garlic into thin rounds. Unlike fresh garlic, it's soft and a little fragile to handle. This was sautéed it in a little butter as a simple sauce. It made a good compliment to the steak; definitely repeatable.

By now I was ready to go for the mushrooms, and made a risotto with dried morels. The garlic was added just as the risotto was removed from the heat. It was allowed to sit, covered, for five minutes before we added the butter and cheese. Zio poured a lovely ripasso to go with it, and we dove in. We've already decided we need to make this dish again, next time accompanied by smoked duck and sautéed bitter greens. The Niece and I have decided that black garlic is a permanent addition to our pantries. Gotta try that chicken sometime too.

Looking for the Warm

2011-01-25T19:21:00.004-06:00

Things have been a little chilly 'round here lately. This isn't so unusual for January. Normally I prefer heavier fare when weather is cold. Not this year. Whatever the reason, I long for the lighter foods I usually enjoy in summer. So when I saw that Chilebrown had pineapple on his grill, I knew I had to make some too. With chiles, of course! Zio grilled pineapple spears and whole red jalapenos for me. These were chopped and I added cilantro and a little pinch of salt. It was sweet, spicy, and just perfect with the fish grilled to go with it. Now if it was only August...

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda

2011-01-19T19:02:00.006-06:00

I hadn't intended to publish this, you see. It was only an amalgamation of leftovers. And I was tired. Although it would be more accurate to say that on this particular day I was completely wiped out. But... if you should happen to have remnants of previous feasts in your refrigerator, and they just happen to be a little mole rojo, chicken, tortillas, cilantro, and cotija cheese, they make a wicked tortilla soup. Best ever, in fact. Just so you know.

A New Year

2011-01-01T15:29:00.008-06:00

Zio, the Niece, and I made a special expedition Christmas eve to Pendery's in Fort Worth. I've been looking for more dried chiles so I can try making more moles. Locally at least, Pendery's is the place for all things spicy and unusual. It's in a rambling old house with creaky floors and vine-covered windows. It's crammed floor to ceiling with culinary stuffs. So crammed, in fact, that we had to make several passes before we were ready to begin shopping in earnest. They had many chiles that I was looking for, and more than a few I wasn't (but got because they looked fun). We got smoked serranos, aji amarillos, mulatos, moritas, and pasilla de Oaxaca chiles, along with hickory and alder smoked salts. I'm looking forward to playing with them in my kitchen, and to planting the seeds in my garden just to see what comes up. It was a lovely morning with two of my favorite people. Good shopping should always have good company.

On the way back we realized we'd turned up 50,000 miles on my car. Only we missed all those zeros rolling up, and noticed it at 50,007 instead. As a child, 7 was my secret lucky number. It's too tempting as an adult to look at all those miles and see life's disappointments encountered along the way. But that day I looked at things differently. All those zeros were spaces for good things to come just waiting to be filled. And some of them already come with good luck. I'm looking foward to what comes next.

Fish Adventures, Part II

2010-12-20T20:38:00.005-06:00

I am going to assume that BP is to blame. Our fishmonger's usual offerings have changed since summer and have been replaced by new, and therefore interesting, fishes. So when we asked what was new and fresh, we were introduced to Pacific Rockfish. Our fishmonger himself had not yet tried it. Would we be interested? Of course we would!

We love Gulf Rockfish, and grill it on a plank to keep it from falling through the grate as it cooks. It's wonderful served with a fresh salsa or over rice. However, the Pacific Rockfish was relatively firm. We elected to season it with Creole seasoning, and cooked it right on the grill. It was good, maybe better than good, just by itself. However, I think 'best' would be to make fish tacos with a nice salsa verde. I just might have to try that before the year is out.

Fish Adventures Part I

2010-12-16T14:40:00.006-06:00

Zio and I grill fish nearly every weekend. This is partly because we really do enjoy fish, and partly because Greg is such a good fishmonger that we can't resist his wares. Several weeks ago he had a fish that was new to us: Keta. It is a salmon relative. Like most salmon it has very moist, firm textured, coral red flesh. However, unlike it's brethren it has a very mild flavor, similar to a white fish.

We tried it a couple of times while in season and discovered it required a very light hand in terms of spices or sauces. While you might sauté the filet in butter and make a sauce by deglazing the pan with a little wine, you would be denying yourslef the pleasure of a fish that takes smoke so agreeably. The Keta was grilled over a mix of cherry and apple woods with no other seasoning than salt and pepper. The sauce I threw together out of things on hand. Sometimes the best things arrive unplanned.

Keta with Shallot-Caper Sauce

Serves 2

3/4 pound Keta filet, skin on
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt
black pepper

1 tablespoon butter
2 shallots, minced
salt
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1-1/2 tablespoon capers
black pepper

Brush Keta with the oil on both sides and season with the salt and pepper. Grill 8 minutes over direct heat. Move to indirect heat and continue to cook 8 to 10 minutes more.

Meanwhile, melt butter over medium heat and cook shallots with a pinch of salt until soft and just beginning to carmelize. Add vinegar and cook to reduce until nearly dry. Add the water and mustard, and cook until thickened to the consistency of a relish. Remove from heat. Add capers and a few twists of the pepper grinder. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve over the Keta.

Adventures in Mole

2010-12-07T17:51:00.009-06:00

Yes, I know. I've been positively truant, not posting for weeks. It isn't for lack of cooking... we've been doing quite a lot of that. Somehow between working and cooking and eating there hasn't been any time for actually writing about it.

One of my ongoing explorations has been to test-drive mole recipes. I love their depth of flavors and their versatility. They can be thickened for a sauce, used to braise meat, or introduced as a basis for a soup. Some are fabulous just as they are. Others just need a little tweak. A few recipes are unspeakably bad. For the most part it's fun, but not necessarily noteworthy. However, I was terribly pleased with the results of this particular mole, and how well it worked with the game hens and rice. I came up with the recipe somewhere between one cookbook and another.

Give yourself plenty of time in making any mole. This one took me an entire morning to compose. If pressed for time, char your veggies and toast your chiles the day before. I specify chicken stock, but I admit that if I'm feeling luxurious and have it on hand, I use smoked duck stock. Once made, the mole can even be frozen if reheated gently.

The game hens were halved, seasoned liberally with salt and pepper, and expertly grilled by Zio. The rice was cooked with a little olive oil, onion, nutmeg, and chicken stock. Serve the hens on the rice, covered with the mole.

Mole Rojo

Makes about 1 pint

2 ounces day-old brioche or challah bread
6 dried ancho chiles
1 dried guajillo chile
1 chipotle chile
1 tablespoon white vinegar
Boiling water
1 – 2 large red bell peppers
1 small onion
3 – 4 cloves garlic
2-1/2 cups chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1-1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon pulverized piloncillo or brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350F. Tear the bread into thumb-sized pieces. Spread on a cookie sheet and gently dry the bread for 15 – 20 minutes. Do not brown. When cool, place in a zip bag and press into crumbs with a rolling pin. Set aside.

Roast the bell pepper over a grill or in a heavy skillet until the skin is charred. Place in a loosely covered bowl to cool. Roast the onion and garlic cloves with the skin on in the same manner. When the vegetables are cool, remove and discard the charred skins from the pepper, onion and garlic. Core and seed peppers. Set aside with any accumulated juices.

Briefly rinse the dried chiles to remove any dirt or grit. Remove stems and seeds. Heat a heavy skillet over medium-low, and quickly dry chiles, turning frequently. Do not burn the chiles! Place chiles in a bowl with the vinegar and add enough boiling water to cover. You may wish to put a plate or bowl over the chiles to keep them submerged. Soak for 20 minutes.

Purée the vegetables and chiles with any accumulated juices, 1/2 cup soaking solution, and the stock to a smooth consistency in a blender or food processor. Working in batches, pour the solution through a medium mesh strainer. Use a wooden spoon to force through as much of the solids as possible.

Combine the cloves, oregano, thyme, and black pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium until rippling. Add the spices and cook, stirring often, until fragrant (about 2 minutes). Slowly add the chile mixture and cook, covered, for 10 minutes over medium-low. Add bread crumbs and salt, and cook for a couple of minutes more. If the sauce is too thick, add a little more stock. Remove from heat and add the pilconcillo. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve warm.

Pink Lady

2010-11-17T19:55:00.006-06:00

Some people regard fall as a time for soups and stews. I admit I love both, and therefore don't wait for cold weather to enjoy them. They're a year 'round kind of thing for me. However, I do wait for fall for apple pie (my favorite). I only like it in the chill of fall, and served warm out of the oven. Sadly, the local purveyor of fine produce did not get any Arkansas Black apples this year. I was fully prepared to howl over this, and was getting ready to pitch a fit when I was distracted by a new (to me) apple. Pink Lady is a tangy apple for pies, not as sweet as some. It is meltingly soft when cooked, but not mushy. A repeatable performance, certainly. The fit will wait for next week. Mmmmm... pie.

A Little Time Out

2010-10-18T20:22:00.010-05:00

Zio and I have been celebrating our anniversary this last week... 21 years! Can you believe it? It seems like only yesterday. Things have been so insane in our respective schedules that going out was eliminated as a possibility almost immediately. Instead we decided to celebrate at home with a special little dinner we prepared for each other. Although each course was selected carefully, we are both of the mind that it's most important to begin the planning process considering dessert and working backwards. The contemplation of different scenarios is almost more delicious than the final product. Should it be something densely chocolate? Perhaps something lighter in the way of a meringue? In the end, we both knew there could be no other choice.

This is a variation of a Piña Colada cheesecake recipe originally published by Cuisine magazine, August 1984. At the time I made it for my mother's lady friends visiting on an evening of sangria and gossip (this is a story for another day... not sure which one). Although it is delicious, Zio and I still prefer a plain cheesecake that is dense and moist. This one features a ginger cookie crust, although crushed biscotti are delicious too. Enjoy it with a cup of black coffee or a little snifter of port.

Cheesecake X-23a

1 cup crushed ginger cookies
2 tablespoon melted butter
1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons butter, melted

2 lbs cream cheese, at room temperature
5 eggs, at room temperature
1-1/4 cups sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 cups sour cream

Combine cookie crumbs, melted butter, and sugar in a 10” springform pan. Smooth and press the crumb mixture over the bottom of the pan in an even layer.

Bake 10 minutes at 350F. Remove to a wire rack and cool completely.

Brush melted butter onto the interior sides of the pan above the crust. Set aside.

Beat the cream cheese until softened. Add the next seven ingredients one at a time, mixing each until just incorporated.

Pour batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes at 325F, or until risen and just beginning to brown at the edges. Turn off oven and leave door just slightly ajar until cooled to room temperature.

Remove from oven and chill in the refrigerator, lightly covered, overnight or at least 6 hours.

Coffee Break

2010-09-29T20:27:00.006-05:00

I may have mentioned that neither Zio or I are big breakfast eaters. That having been said, we do like a little something with our morning coffee. Zio's favorite? Biscotti, of course! I usually make something a bit more healthy, but I also believe it's perfectly healthy to indulge in something a little less so now and again.

This would be one of those times. I admit that these biscotti are something akin to having brownies for breakfast. I can't think of a better way to start the weekend!

Double-Chocolate Biscotti

Makes 1-2 dozen, depending on size

1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup Dutch-processed cocoa
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter at room temperature
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
2/3 cup cacao nibs

Preheat oven to 325F.

Sift the first four ingredients into a bowl. Set aside.

In a large bowl, cream the butter with the sugar. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Add vanilla.

Mix the dry ingredients into the butter and eggs in thirds until just blended. Thoroughly fold in the cacao nibs.

On a parchment-lined baking sheet, smooth dough into a single log (for coffee shop-sized biscotti), or divide into two logs for the more traditional size. Allow at least two inches between the logs. Bake for 25-28 minutes, or until deep brown in color and springy to the touch.

Cool loaf on a rack for 10 minutes. Place on a cutting board and slice to about 1/2 inch thick (I find a two-handed pizza cutter works well). Place biscotti upright on the baking sheet, at least 1/2 inch apart, and return to the oven to dry or ‘toast’ for 10-12 minutes. Fully cooled, the biscotti should keep at least two weeks in an airtight container.

A Small Indulgence

2010-09-21T16:22:00.005-05:00

Without getting into it, things have been really insane around here lately. I'd love a real vacation, but since that isn't going to happen any time soon, I found myself wanting something that would make me feel a little spoiled without having to actually go to the grocery store. Something creamy and indulgent. Happily, I had cream. And a couple of handfuls of dried morel mushrooms. What more does anyone need?

Farfalle with Morel-Cream Sauce

Serves 4

1 cup dried morel mushrooms
1-1/2 cups boiling water
1 lb penne
1/4 lb butter
2 shallots, finely minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
black pepper
salt
6 basil leaves, thinly sliced

Place mushrooms in a non-reactive dish and pour over boiling water to cover. Set aside for 20 minutes to rehydrate.

Remove mushrooms from the hot water, gently squeezing to remove excess liquid. Strain soaking liquid through a coffee filter to remove any grit and set aside. Slice the morels into slivers and set aside.

Meanwhile, boil well-salted water and cook the penne until al dente. Drain and set aside.

In the same pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add shallots, morels, and thyme, and cook until mushrooms render their liquid. Add the soaking liquid, increase heat to medium-high, and reduce until liquid just coats the mushrooms. Add the cream and reduce heat to medium. Return the penne to the pan, and stir to combine. Add the cheese along with salt and pepper to taste and continue stirring until melted and completely incorporated. Remove the pan from the heat.

Divide between plates, garnish with the sliced basil, and serve at once with additional cheese if wished.

A Quick Aside

2010-09-07T16:20:00.009-05:00

Between work and a rather involved home project, I've been chasing my tail a lot lately. I keep hoping the elves will pick up the slack, but so far they seem to be on an extended vacation, darn it! As a result, most of my cooking has been food that can be prepared quickly with what exists in my refrigerator or pantry.

This dish was inspired by pesto I make to accompany fish or chicken. Added to couscous, it's a quick way to extend a meal after a long day of digging irrigation trenches, or to accommodate for unexpected (but thoroughly delightful) company.

Parsley-Caper Couscous

Serves 4

1 cup water
1 cup couscous
2 – 3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped
1/4 cup capers
1/4 cup olive oil
salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon finely cut chives

Heat water to boiling. Remove from heat, add couscous, and cover. Set aside.

Meanwhile, melt butter over medium heat, and sauté garlic until it just begins to color.

Stir couscous with a fork. Add butter, garlic, and stir to combine. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Couscous may be served at once, or at room temperature.

Variation:
Reduce chopped parsley to 1/3 cup. Add a handful minced fresh mint, 1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds, and 1/4 teaspoon cumin.

Moooooo, An Update

2010-08-30T15:36:00.006-05:00

This is the brisket Zio smoked for us and the neighbors on Sunday (before cooking). Just in case anyone was thinking that there were waaaay too many fish posts.

We did ask our lovely neighbors to give us their feedback, since this was our third attempt. I just had to share the note we got back:

"After long anguished consideration, I've decided that you could improve on your brisket. To that end, I have purchased a large hunk of brisket meat and would be willing to donate it to your quest for the perfect brisket and will volunteer my son, Shane, as your official taster. Only catch is, you can't do anything differently than you did last time. If this is agreeable to you, please let me know. Otherwise, I am going to make Lou pull out his culinary skills and 'git 'er done.'"

I hope everyone has a wonderful Labor Day weekend! Party's at our house!

Branzino

2010-08-29T21:19:00.004-05:00

We detoured from our usual Saturday grilled fish fillets and went for the gusto. We got a couple of whole fish, in this case, Branzino. I stuffed the fish with a handful of minced marjoram, garlic, grated lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Zio grilled it. It was a fine meal. Many thanks to Greg for the recommendation!

It Must Be Love

2010-08-27T20:45:00.008-05:00

Many years ago, I made a mustard chicken dish for Zio when we were still dating. I admit it was clipped from Elle magazine. Can I just say for the record that I've evolved since then? Interestingly, so has the recipe! The original featured breaded chicken legs. Since then, time (or the lack of it) and dietary concerns have modified the recipe to remove this step. And somehow, sage wandered into the picture... I can't say I remember why or under what circumstances except that I like it in almost everything. Doesn't everyone?

This is our Sunday night chicken dinner when no one wants to cook, but is too tired to be bothered with looking nice in polite company. It's comforting, satisfying, and ready in about 20 minutes. Serve it with some lovely mashed potatoes and a little salad. What's not to love?

Mustard-Sage Chicken

4 boneless chicken breasts, skin on
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh sage
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 shallots, minced
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Season the chicken breasts on both sides with salt, pepper, and sage. Heat oil and butter in a skillet together over medium heat, add chicken, and cook until golden on both sides and cooked through, about 8 minutes on a side.

Remove breasts to a covered warmed plate. Discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat in the pan. Add the shallot and cook until translucent. Add vinegar, and cook until almost dry. Add stock and any collected juices; whisk in mustard. Cook until reduced by half. Pour sauce over the chicken and serve at once.

Sweetness and Light

2010-08-25T16:00:00.006-05:00

I'm a reluctant fan of mint as a general rule. It's useful in certain dishes, but I confess I find it's aroma somewhat skunky. I've never grown it myself as a result. But my local nursery has Lavender Mint. I found the name intriguing and gave it a sniff. It wasn't skunky. In fact, it was lovely... almost a honey aroma with just a hint of mint.

This particular handful went into a batch of Raspberry Vinaigrette along with a little ginger. It is a sweet dressing that worked well with the mint on a salad of bitter greens. I think the next batch, when ready, may flavor some ice cream or a granita. I'm looking forward to it.

Something New

2010-08-18T17:13:00.006-05:00

Zio and I have been trying different fish varieties lately in response to the lack of availability for gulf fish. For the most part, we tend to favor firm-fleshed fish that can be cooked directly on the grill. But the best looking fish in the case this week was trout.

I admit that my memories of trout center around picking out bones from fish caught and prepared by my brother-in-law. But our fish monger assured us that this fish would be boneless... really! So we got the trout, because it looked lovely. Zio put it on an applewood plank, and I added some olive oil, freshly minced dill, salt, and pepper. It was moist, smoky, and delicious... and completely boneless as promised. Definitely a repeatable dinner. Thanks Greg!